Greetings from Beaufort, South Carolina, our home for the summer.
We have cruised north to Tampa Bay several times since we began our travels, each time crossing the Gulf without stopping much along the way. On our way south, we decided to “take our time” as much as two goal driven task oriented sailors can! We started by sailing downwind in a light breeze across Tampa Bay never turning on the engine even though we were going a painful 3.5 knots. We stayed on the ICW through Sarasota to Charlotte Harbor and Ft. Meyers. Gunk holing and dinghy exploring with friends was great, but we relapsed to our usual selves when we got to Marco Island and from there headed directly to Marathon.
Friends Les & Marta exploring.
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Anchored near Useppa Island
Cayo Costa Beach
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Burdines Restaurant with performer Joe Mama is always a treat, and we spent a few days catching up with old friends before heading north. The sail up to Key Biscayne was long, but the weather prompted us to keep going, coming into the Florida Channel at Key Biscayne at night. We were greeted by the Coast Guard who came along side us while we were in the channel (in the dark) and decided to board us. No big deal, they checked ID’s, asked a few questions and went on their way.
There is always a pirate in St. Augustine!
After a stop in Stuart and Fort Pierce, we spent about 3 weeks in St. Augustine visiting friends and walking around some of our favorite parts of the city before leaving for Beaufort. Hidden Harbor, the marina where we stayed, is located on the St. Sabastian River and was an easy walk to the historic part of town.
Late afternoon, calmer seas.
During the last week of May, we began to study the weather looking for a weather window to leave. Over the weekend, beach goers were warned about the rip currents due to the strong east winds. In fact it was on the national news because several people drowned. For us, east winds with 4-5 ft. waves hitting the side of the boat makes for a very unpleasant ride north.
On Wednesday a small window opened. We knew that it might be a little rough at first, but all the predictions suggested the further north we went the more favorable the weather conditions. We put a course into the chart plotter which we will follow to Beaufort, keeping us between 5 and 10 miles offshore, avoiding lights and buoys and other stationary obstacles.
Wednesday morning we waited for slack tide so we could avoid the east wind opposing an outgoing tide in the channel, which makes for bigger waves funneling through the channel getting to the Atlantic. Past experience told us to make sure that anything that could fly needed to be secured. It doesn’t take long to discover what you forgot.
It had been several months since we were in open water, and we definitely didn’t have our sea legs. The first 4 or 5 hours were uncomfortable as the 3-4 ft. waves hit the side of the boat, knocking us around. I am pleased to report, that we did not have any flying objects. Once the sails were up and the course was reviewed and set, we began taking turns on watch. We were surprised to see a large sea turtle swimming alongside the boat given the sea conditions; as soon as we mentioned the word camera, he dove under the water. During the day at the start of a passage, 2 hours shifts allow time to relax and maybe even take a cat nap.
On Wednesday a small window opened. We knew that it might be a little rough at first, but all the predictions suggested the further north we went the more favorable the weather conditions. We put a course into the chart plotter which we will follow to Beaufort, keeping us between 5 and 10 miles offshore, avoiding lights and buoys and other stationary obstacles.
Wednesday morning we waited for slack tide so we could avoid the east wind opposing an outgoing tide in the channel, which makes for bigger waves funneling through the channel getting to the Atlantic. Past experience told us to make sure that anything that could fly needed to be secured. It doesn’t take long to discover what you forgot.
It had been several months since we were in open water, and we definitely didn’t have our sea legs. The first 4 or 5 hours were uncomfortable as the 3-4 ft. waves hit the side of the boat, knocking us around. I am pleased to report, that we did not have any flying objects. Once the sails were up and the course was reviewed and set, we began taking turns on watch. We were surprised to see a large sea turtle swimming alongside the boat given the sea conditions; as soon as we mentioned the word camera, he dove under the water. During the day at the start of a passage, 2 hours shifts allow time to relax and maybe even take a cat nap.
Sun has set, last little bit of light!
Francie took the first 4 hour shift, from 8 PM until midnight.
Francie: Mike lets me schedule the shifts because I have a harder time staying awake in the middle of the night and like the early morning watch. The waves have gradually calmed down as the day progressed, so it is a more comfortable ride. With both sails up and the motor off most of the time, we maintained speeds of between 6.5 and 8 knots, with 10-12 knots of wind on the beam. Not a bad ride! (Although I did start the day with a double dose of Dramamine!) Dinner was a salmon salad that Mike made and various snacks we had picked up for the trip. We have seen 3 or 4 boats out here with us throughout the day, but no other traffic during this watch.
Francie: Mike lets me schedule the shifts because I have a harder time staying awake in the middle of the night and like the early morning watch. The waves have gradually calmed down as the day progressed, so it is a more comfortable ride. With both sails up and the motor off most of the time, we maintained speeds of between 6.5 and 8 knots, with 10-12 knots of wind on the beam. Not a bad ride! (Although I did start the day with a double dose of Dramamine!) Dinner was a salmon salad that Mike made and various snacks we had picked up for the trip. We have seen 3 or 4 boats out here with us throughout the day, but no other traffic during this watch.
Down below on a passage
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Mike: For me the 8 to midnight shift off watch is difficult because I have to try to make myself go to sleep. I try reading but most of the time, I just lay there figuring resting is better than something active. Francie had put the lee cloths up so I don’t have to worry about rolling out of the berth. Eventually I fall asleep, but I am unconsciously listening for any unusual sounds or changes in the rhythm of the boat. For some reason I awake 15 minutes before midnight.
When my shift starts, I get my life jacket with the harness and tether just in case I should have to leave the cockpit. We have jack lines that run from the front of the boat to the back. They are on both sides. If we have to leave the cockpit, the tether is attached to the jack line. The goal is to stay on the boat, but if one of us slips, the jack line will keep us attached to the boat.
When I come on at midnight Francie shows me where we are on the chart plotter. She has also turned on the radar so she updates me on any ship or stationary object that needs to be monitored. Even with the moon and stars, there is no visibility.
When I come on at midnight Francie shows me where we are on the chart plotter. She has also turned on the radar so she updates me on any ship or stationary object that needs to be monitored. Even with the moon and stars, there is no visibility.
Francie 4AM: Didn’t sleep as soundly as I would have liked, but feel rested. As we switch places, Mike takes the berth and I take the cockpit, we turn on some lights, I can gather my iPad, snacks, and record our position and progress. Not much has changed. We are making good speed in the direction we want to go. Since the wind isn’t as strong, we have the engine on and the sails up. There are more stars out now than when I went down at midnight. It is warm enough that only an extra shirt is needed. We are keeping close eye on our cross track error (how close we are staying to our course). There are a number of fish havens in this area, which means lighted and unlighted buoys, and we really don’t want to get to close to one! There is freighter traffic showing up on the radar as we cross a major shipping channel in Georgia. Lights are visible toward shore which is about 10 miles away. The time passed quickly and it is always amazing to watch the sun come up. Once it is light I turn off the radar and running lights. Mike woke up a bit after 7 AM and was ready to come up, so I gladly gave him the last bit of my watch and headed for the berth.
Sunrise
Lady's Island Marina
Mike 7:15 AM: I slept soundly for 3 hours and felt refreshed and am ready to take a shift. Francie made coffee during the night so I am ready for the rest of the day. When I started my shift, we were 2 hours from the channel leading into Port Royal Sound. It is nice to be able to see outside the boat rather than have to depend on radar.
When we entered the channel, there are several small fishing boats and a large shrimp boat coming out. The hardest part of the trip was over. The waves are small and the wind is light. When Francie gets up, we will take the sails down because they are flopping around.
The tide is coming out so we are going about 5.8 mph; without the tide we would do about 8 miles an hour. From the entrance of the channel to Beaufort is about 27 miles. Finally after 4 hours, we can see the bridge that needs to open for us to get to our marina. The bridge schedule has been recently cut back; it only opens on the hour. We missed the opening by about 8 minutes. Lady’s Island Marina is just the other side of the bridge, and we could see it, but for the next 52 minutes we motored around waiting for the bridge to open.
Finally after about 25 hours, we arrived at our home for the next 4 months, with a warm welcome from TJ at Lady’s Island Marina. By the time we finished our chores and had supper, we were exhausted and know we would have no trouble sleeping.
When we entered the channel, there are several small fishing boats and a large shrimp boat coming out. The hardest part of the trip was over. The waves are small and the wind is light. When Francie gets up, we will take the sails down because they are flopping around.
The tide is coming out so we are going about 5.8 mph; without the tide we would do about 8 miles an hour. From the entrance of the channel to Beaufort is about 27 miles. Finally after 4 hours, we can see the bridge that needs to open for us to get to our marina. The bridge schedule has been recently cut back; it only opens on the hour. We missed the opening by about 8 minutes. Lady’s Island Marina is just the other side of the bridge, and we could see it, but for the next 52 minutes we motored around waiting for the bridge to open.
Finally after about 25 hours, we arrived at our home for the next 4 months, with a warm welcome from TJ at Lady’s Island Marina. By the time we finished our chores and had supper, we were exhausted and know we would have no trouble sleeping.