2001 Maritime Provinces
Last year I rode from Vancouver, BC to Fort Frances, ON which is just north of International Falls, MN. It just seemed logical that I should see the eastern side of Canada. I crossed into Sarnia, ON and headed for the Maritimes and thus the adventure begins.
Tuesday, July 24
Day 1
Dear Family and Friends,
I am on the road again. I left Chicago Sunday morning and went to my parents’ house in Lansing, Michigan. I visited with Patt, my sister from Florida, and was soundly beaten playing cards against my sister Debbie and my mother. I also spent time with my nephew and nieces.
Tuesday morning I jumped onto the highway and made a bee-line for Canada. By 3:30 I was passing through Toronto. I am spending the night in Brighton, Ontario. Not much to report in terms of interesting
sights since it was all expressway. I covered 400 miles, and my butt is a bit sore.
It was quite warm but a low is coming in to cool things off.
I am hoping to be on the other side of Quebec City by tomorrow evening. Then I plan to slow down a bit.
I hope to find a place to send this to all of you.
Mike
Day 1
Dear Family and Friends,
I am on the road again. I left Chicago Sunday morning and went to my parents’ house in Lansing, Michigan. I visited with Patt, my sister from Florida, and was soundly beaten playing cards against my sister Debbie and my mother. I also spent time with my nephew and nieces.
Tuesday morning I jumped onto the highway and made a bee-line for Canada. By 3:30 I was passing through Toronto. I am spending the night in Brighton, Ontario. Not much to report in terms of interesting
sights since it was all expressway. I covered 400 miles, and my butt is a bit sore.
It was quite warm but a low is coming in to cool things off.
I am hoping to be on the other side of Quebec City by tomorrow evening. Then I plan to slow down a bit.
I hope to find a place to send this to all of you.
Mike
Wednesday, July 25
Day 2
Dear Friends and Family,
I only have 20 minutes to write to you so I may sign off in mid-sentence.
I am in Cromwell Ontario. I am an hour west of Montreal. It is rather cool today. I may have to wear the chaps. I have covered 200 miles. I can't wait to get off the expressway. The trucks keep passing me at 75. They really make me nervous. Well I have to go. Talk to you again soon.
It is Friday, and I have finally found a place to write to you. Many of the towns are too small to have Internet access or because I don’t speak a word of French I can’t make myself understood.
Today a woman in the bank called the library, and they agreed to let me
come in before the library opened to use the computer. Everyone has been so friendly, but it is frustrating trying to communicate. Wish I had paid more attention to the French teacher who shared a classroom with me last year. Since the keyboard is designed for French I am having a little trouble typing this. I am such a horrible typist as it is. Here are the letters I have been writing along the way.
Mike
Day 2
Dear Friends and Family,
I only have 20 minutes to write to you so I may sign off in mid-sentence.
I am in Cromwell Ontario. I am an hour west of Montreal. It is rather cool today. I may have to wear the chaps. I have covered 200 miles. I can't wait to get off the expressway. The trucks keep passing me at 75. They really make me nervous. Well I have to go. Talk to you again soon.
It is Friday, and I have finally found a place to write to you. Many of the towns are too small to have Internet access or because I don’t speak a word of French I can’t make myself understood.
Today a woman in the bank called the library, and they agreed to let me
come in before the library opened to use the computer. Everyone has been so friendly, but it is frustrating trying to communicate. Wish I had paid more attention to the French teacher who shared a classroom with me last year. Since the keyboard is designed for French I am having a little trouble typing this. I am such a horrible typist as it is. Here are the letters I have been writing along the way.
Mike
Wednesday, July 25
Day 2 continued
Lots has happened since I wrote to you yesterday afternoon. First let me tell you where I am. I am in St. Paul, Quebec about 60 miles east of Quebec City. I drove 500 miles today. I thought my butt was sore yesterday; today it is throbbing.
The city of St. Paul, which is on the north side of the St. Lawrence Seaway, is nestled in the surrounding mountains. I climbed several mountains, and as I rose over the top of the 2nd mountain, there was a
breathtaking view of the St. Lawrence. Miles of water lined with layers of green hills shouted a Kodak moment, but at 70 miles an hour it was gone in a flash.
It is truly a disadvantage not speaking French. I have had several moments that have been confusing. Many people speak enough English to communicate, but it is still a problem. This will help me understand what my students go through since most of them are Hispanic and speak English as a second language.
I did have an interesting experience coming through Montreal this afternoon. I noticed that the bag behind me was moving. I reached back and pushed it down. A moment later in my mirror, I watched it bounce onto the highway. The highway had 4 lanes of traffic heading east. I pulled to the shoulder and ran about a 1/4 to rescue it from the traffic. Cars were going to either side of it. Finally the traffic cleared enough for me to dash out and retrieve my luggage. My new waterproof bag is no longer waterproof. It has several small slits in the side and the plastic snaps are broken.
Considering the bag departed the bike at 75 miles an hour and bounced several times, it is in surprisingly good shape. My new tent and sleeping bag were unharmed.
I am planning to travel the north side of the St. Lawrence then cross by ferry. I am relieve to be here and am looking forward to slowing down and watching the scenery.
I have met several very nice people today. A man and his wife told me I could camp in their back yard. They told me about the beautiful city of St. Paul. I met them 100 miles west of Quebec. They were thrilled
to practice their English, and I was thrilled to talk to someone. This language barrier is a new experience, not one that I am enjoying.
I am amazed at how many motorcycles I see. Most are traveling in groups of 2-4. Many look like they are touring like me.
I am about to turn in for the night.
Mike
Thursday, July 26
Day 3
Dear Family and Friends,
I am still in the same library as before. I am continuing from where I left off.
I got up early this morning and decided to clean the bike. Just as I shut the door, I realized I left the bike keys in my room. I reached in my pocket only to discover the bike keys-not my room key. It was 6:45, and the office wasn’t open. I cleaned the bike which wasn’t easy with 500 miles of bugs and grime. Explaining to the man I locked my key in the room was somewhat difficult for both of us. Hard to communicate when "Merci" is the only word I know. It is going to be chilly day, but there is a beautiful clear sky.
It is 4 pm, and I will be crossing the St. Lawrence in a few minutes. I just read my last entry so much for the clear sky. I watched a rain cloud all day. Off in the distance I could see it raining. Then the road and
the cloud would intersect, and it rained on me. Then we would separate, and I would dry out again. Then the road and I would once again intersect with the cloud. Once again the cloud would rain on my parade and dry clothing. We did this dance 2 or 3 times until I reached Forestville. Since it was the end of my travels, the cloud dumped on
me one last time. I had to wait 2 hours for the ferry thus giving me a chance to dry everything.
It has been a long underwear and leather day. I followed the St Lawrence for about 4 hours.
First I would climb a mountain, then another and then catch a glimpse of the St Lawrence. (I am typing as fast as I can because I am running out of time.) The tide was out, and the exposed sea bottom was interesting. Highway 138 is a tourist’s dream, water to my left and mountains to my right. The road was so much fun that I found myself laughing out loud. When I wasn’t laughing, I was making uh`s and ah`s noises. I sounded like I was at a baby shower while gifts were being opened.
I must go. Until later.
Mike
Day 3
Dear Family and Friends,
I am still in the same library as before. I am continuing from where I left off.
I got up early this morning and decided to clean the bike. Just as I shut the door, I realized I left the bike keys in my room. I reached in my pocket only to discover the bike keys-not my room key. It was 6:45, and the office wasn’t open. I cleaned the bike which wasn’t easy with 500 miles of bugs and grime. Explaining to the man I locked my key in the room was somewhat difficult for both of us. Hard to communicate when "Merci" is the only word I know. It is going to be chilly day, but there is a beautiful clear sky.
It is 4 pm, and I will be crossing the St. Lawrence in a few minutes. I just read my last entry so much for the clear sky. I watched a rain cloud all day. Off in the distance I could see it raining. Then the road and
the cloud would intersect, and it rained on me. Then we would separate, and I would dry out again. Then the road and I would once again intersect with the cloud. Once again the cloud would rain on my parade and dry clothing. We did this dance 2 or 3 times until I reached Forestville. Since it was the end of my travels, the cloud dumped on
me one last time. I had to wait 2 hours for the ferry thus giving me a chance to dry everything.
It has been a long underwear and leather day. I followed the St Lawrence for about 4 hours.
First I would climb a mountain, then another and then catch a glimpse of the St Lawrence. (I am typing as fast as I can because I am running out of time.) The tide was out, and the exposed sea bottom was interesting. Highway 138 is a tourist’s dream, water to my left and mountains to my right. The road was so much fun that I found myself laughing out loud. When I wasn’t laughing, I was making uh`s and ah`s noises. I sounded like I was at a baby shower while gifts were being opened.
I must go. Until later.
Mike
Saturday, July 28
Day 5
It's 8 am and warm, the first time in 3 days. I am sitting outside my motel, which sits on a large hill overlooking the town of Perce, Quebec. I am on the south side of the Gaspe Peninsula. There is a tall chunk of
rock maybe a 1000 feet high, and it has a hole through it. You could drive a boat through the opening. Also there is an island with high cliffs on one side and it slopes to sea level on the other. Attached to the mainland are several large cliffs that flow into the water forming bays. And of course there is a large church in a central part of town. I took a
picture.
Today I head for New Brunswick. I am looking forward to a warm ride.
Will write more later.
Sunday, July 29
Day 6
I made it, and I am staying in Bathurst, N.B. I am moteling it again. This time it is a real nice place in the heart of the city. I went swimming, and they even have an exercise room, all of this for $25 with
the exchange rate.
I met a couple on the road. We were waiting to cross the bridge to NB. There was only one lane open. They showed me the back roads to Bathurst instead of the expressway. They were on their way home from a 4-day trip.
After I wrote you last, I must have seen 8 Internet cafes. Today I looked, and I saw nothing. (Haven’t seen one since, until today) Because of the time change-Atlantic, I missed the library here in town.
When I went to breakfast this morning, I pulled up next to a Harley. I parked close to the bike because I didn't want to block the entrance to the cafe.
As I walked up, the rider nodded to me. I got myself breakfast and ate outside. When he got up to leave, I offered to move my bike. He asked me where I was going and informed me he was going the other way. We
exchange pleasantries. His English was very good. I told him I left Chicago on Sunday. He tells me that he was near Halifax three weeks ago and was traveling on a road that was "fucking good, man." This was
totally out of character with the rest of the conversation. As he continued to tell me about the corners and hill, he used the new adjective phrase at least 5 times. Was it the word "Chicago" that
triggered the new vernacular?
By the way this guy could be in motorcycle GQ – is that an oxymoron. He was trim; hair had flecks of gray, mustache neatly trimmed. He even had a diamond stud in his ear. The guy was really good looking.
He had that European look. I sure didn't want to stand next to him for long. Even his leather coat looked more like a shirt than a coat. As he stood next to his Harley all I could think of was the Harley image with its leather fringe, chaps, no helmet. You know the grungy, tough Sturgis image. This guy was never going to be a Harley poster boy.
I am about 6 hours from PEI.
I am really enjoying the sights and the riding. I am a little lonely. Hard to talk to people when you can't speak the language. I forced myself to go to a nice restaurant rather than a Subway type place. I took my
time eating and people watched. It was fun. I am trying to get myself to slow down. I will see how long it lasts.
Well that is it for now. I want to get going and see the sights. I will keep journaling. It has been fun keeping a log of what is happening.
Hope all of you are well.
Mike
Monday, July 30
Day 7
I am on Prince Edward Island. I just got here and went looking for the Internet. Last night I had a lobster dinner at a carry out place. They cracked the shell so it is easy to eat. I sat on some rocks that act as a harbor and watch the fisherman in their boats. The sun is getting ready to set soon. I am tired but a pervasive sense of satisfaction makes me feel warm all over. I am looking forward to more meals like this.
It is Monday evening, and I am at Campbell's Cove, Prince Edward Island. The weather is warm, and the scenery quite different from the past few days. This part of the island has more sandy beaches and more farmland. I am told the north side of the island is rockier.
(That was all I wrote. The people working the night shift at the campground were telling me about all of the places I should see. I am sitting outside of the camp office because it is the only place with enough light to write. I have an entire list of places I want to visit.)
Tuesday, July 31
Day 8
I can't believe that I have been gone a week. It seems both longer and shorter. I have covered 2400 miles so far. The good news is my butt doesn't get sore anymore.
I went to Cavendish and stopped at Anne of Green Gables. Last fall I was telling Jenny, a teacher at school, about my future trip. She said her dream was to go to PEI and see Anne's house. I walked the trail behind her house. It was described in her book. It was a special place for Anne. As I followed a stream, I read the quotes from her book that were posted along the trail. The quotes expressed the peace and harmony Anne felt with nature. It was a very peaceful place. The trail was only 1.5 k. The idea according to the sign was to experience what Anne felt as she walked along the brook. It was working; I had a strong sensation of peacefulness and I felt in tune with nature. Then I saw a strange type of netting in the trees. It was then that I realized I was walking on the edge of a golf course, and the netting was to prevent me from getting hit from a stray golf ball. So much for connecting with Anne and nature, I just shook my head and headed back.
Last night I camped along the St. Lawrence. I am only a few miles from where the Atlantic meets it. The area is so serene and not touristy. The local people are proud of that fact. Several different people said something negative about the Cavendish area and all of the tourists.
I had dinner in an Irish Pub and had some good conversation. I was told that I should find a ceildh ("kallie"). People bring their instruments and dance. People of all ages and from all over are welcome. It sounds interesting, but I am leaving the island in the morning. When I went to sleep, I could hear the waves lapping the shore. It was a very tranquil way to go to sleep.
Day 8
I can't believe that I have been gone a week. It seems both longer and shorter. I have covered 2400 miles so far. The good news is my butt doesn't get sore anymore.
I went to Cavendish and stopped at Anne of Green Gables. Last fall I was telling Jenny, a teacher at school, about my future trip. She said her dream was to go to PEI and see Anne's house. I walked the trail behind her house. It was described in her book. It was a special place for Anne. As I followed a stream, I read the quotes from her book that were posted along the trail. The quotes expressed the peace and harmony Anne felt with nature. It was a very peaceful place. The trail was only 1.5 k. The idea according to the sign was to experience what Anne felt as she walked along the brook. It was working; I had a strong sensation of peacefulness and I felt in tune with nature. Then I saw a strange type of netting in the trees. It was then that I realized I was walking on the edge of a golf course, and the netting was to prevent me from getting hit from a stray golf ball. So much for connecting with Anne and nature, I just shook my head and headed back.
Last night I camped along the St. Lawrence. I am only a few miles from where the Atlantic meets it. The area is so serene and not touristy. The local people are proud of that fact. Several different people said something negative about the Cavendish area and all of the tourists.
I had dinner in an Irish Pub and had some good conversation. I was told that I should find a ceildh ("kallie"). People bring their instruments and dance. People of all ages and from all over are welcome. It sounds interesting, but I am leaving the island in the morning. When I went to sleep, I could hear the waves lapping the shore. It was a very tranquil way to go to sleep.
I am sitting next to the East Point Lighthouse. There is no one here since it is 8:30 am. The land is red. I was taken back by the brightness of the color. It is not what one expects as you walk along the ocean. I took a picture at Campbell's cove and here at the lighthouse to show you the red beaches. Up the road a few miles I am told that the beaches change from red to white sand. This is the beginning of the Atlantic side of the island.
I plan to make lots of stops along the way.
I hope all is well with you.
Mike
I hope all is well with you.
Mike
Wednesday, August 1
Day 9
Dear Family and Friends,
I am in Cape Breton N.S. It is beautiful. I plan to ride the Cabot Trail and then maybe go to Newfoundland. It may be few days before I can find a place to email you. I will keep writing in my journal. I have enjoyed writing to you and hearing from you. It has made the trip even more special. This is a beautiful area. I hear the trail has steep climbs and sharp corners.
I wrote this little bit yesterday so I will tell you about the ferry ride.
Day 9 Continued
3PM
This morning I boarded the ferry to Nova Scotia. Currently I am sitting in a lounge watching two young fellows playing Celtic music. One has a fiddle and the other a guitar. They are both very good. It takes 90 minutes to cross into Nova Scotia.
I have been talking to a guy that I met while waiting for the ferry. He was originally from Detroit. He told me that he had gone to brewer’s school in Skokie, IL. Now he is working as a photographer because the family brewery was sold. It turns out that his family was Stroh’s. They were bought out by one of the big brewing companies. He is traveling just like I am by bike. He had an older BMW. He was very nice. I would have never known by the way he dressed or acted that he was wealthy. He kept spitting into his pop can because he was chewing tobacco. We had a good conversation. I saw him later on the road, and he said he would send me some of his photos.
You never know whom one will meet on a motorcycle.
Today had been exciting. I left the bed and breakfast that I stayed at in New Glasgow at about 8 am and went to Antagonish where I did my laundry. It was cold so I was wearing all of the leather. It is not easy to maintain the biker image as you fold you underwear and crease your jeans. It is nice to have clean clothes again, 5 more days before laundry day again. Limited clothing makes it easy to figure out what to wear. I have the bundles color-coded so I know what is dirty - You don't need to know all of this. I am just getting carried away.
Well I am off. I still need to find a place to stay for the night.
Mike
Thursday, August 2
Day 10
Good morning,
I am sitting in the Celtic Cafe in Inverness on Cape Breton. I did not ride many miles, but I certainly enjoyed myself. I went for a walk along the ocean after I set up my tent. I really enjoy the smell of the ocean. It is a mixture of salt and decaying seaweed. There were just a few people swimming. I imagine the water is cold.
People have been very friendly. I was going to go to a Celtic concert, but by the time I got ready it was too late. This is a large Celtic music area. The concert was 20 miles away and not knowing the roads would make it dangerous at night.
I am looking forward to today's ride. I met a guy from Montreal who has spent the past few days riding in the mountains. He said the riding is even better than Gaspe!
There is not much to write about. So I will finish my coffee and hit the road. I am sure I will have lots to tell you later.
What a day! I only rode about 200 miles, but it took me all day. I did only 1/2 of the Cabot trail. At one point near Pleasant Bay, I saw pods of whales. It was very impressive. The roads were in good shape most of the time. The scenery is spectacular. I rode from the St Lawrence side to the Atlantic side. I took lots of pictures. When I went to the Atlantic side, I went whale watching. We were out two hours, and we saw a couple of seals. We did not see a whale. The captain was getting frustrated. He kept pacing back and forth apologizing to us. It was really hot, and the water had small swells that tossed the fishing boat back and forth. As I peered over the water looking for some sign of a whale, I heard a somewhat familiar sound. There with his head in a plastic garbage bag was a little boy heaving his guts out. I am not unfamiliar with the scene after years of racing on sailboats, but I paid $25 to see whales. What could be worse? The mother of the child was looking very concerned while talking soothingly to her child. After a few moments, her expression changed from concerned to a pasty white and then a greenish color. Soon there where two heads in the bag. The whole trip was turning into a disaster. I could have taken the whale watching tour on Pleasant Bay where I had seen all of the pods of whales, but no, I did not want to wait for an hour. So instead I spend two hours looking for non-existent whales and listening to two people become seasick.
I ended my ride in Sydney. I still can't decide if I want to go to Newfoundland. I guess I will decide in the morning.
Friday, August 3
Day 11
Dear Friends and Family,
I am sitting on the ferry on my way to Newfoundland. I woke up at 7:15 and was at the ferry at 8:00. Since I had no reservation, I decided to let availability of space on the ferry be the determining factor.
Yesterday I met a couple from New York while I was taking a small ferry to Sydney. They were very nice, and we exchanged motorcycle pleasantries: Nice bike, how many miles did you travel; how long have you been out; where did you go; what are the roads like? They are on the ferry to NF with me. It has been nice talking to them. We are going to some of the same places; I am sure I will see them again. I had breakfast with them and met a guy from NF. It has been an interesting morning. He told us places to go. He described a whale watching tour he had gone on. I know that I want to take a whale watching tour again.
The trip is 5-6 hours long. I hope to get to Stephenville for the night and then head up the coast in the morning. I changed time zones again. I am 2 1/2 hours ahead of you.
After watching the movie Titanic, and hearing lots of speeches about it when I was teaching speech, I decide to look for the lifeboats. They looked like orange submarines. They are sealed and have an electric motor. It says on the outside that they hold 43 people.
I just looked up and saw another ship going in the opposite direction. I imagine things will be expensive since everything on the island comes over by ferry.
Did I tell you that I have gone 3000 mile? That doesn't cover all of the ferry miles.
I talked to a woman who works on the ferry. They work 12-hour shifts for two weeks, and then they are off for two weeks. She said there is a cabin at the top of the ship for them to live. Interesting job.
Well I am going for a walk. I will write more later. Maybe I will find a place to email tonight.
30 minutes later:
The boat is moving pretty fast and has a gentle roll to it. It is odd to be on one of the big boats that we try to avoid on the sailboat. The deck hand on the ferry made us strap down the bikes so they won't move. It is nice being on a bike because they let us go to the front of the line. The boat should arrive at 3pm, and I have a 3-hour ride to Stephenville. I don't think I will camp tonight. I was warned by a guy from Labrador not to ride at night. The moose come out on the highway at night.
Later
I am in Stephenville. It is cold here when the sun goes down or behind a cloud. There is a stiff wind coming off the ocean that blew me around, but it is beautiful. I really had to keep a grip on the handlebars to keep the wind from pushing me across the road. Coming off the ferry, I started to climb a mountain, ocean on one-side and mountains on the other. The clouds were covering the tops of the mountains that are running to my right. Lots of Kodak moments, but I didn't stop to take any pictures.
The guy and his wife from the ferry just showed up at the motel.
In the morning I am heading for Gros Morne National Park. The road runs along the ocean. I was on the Trans Continental Highway. It is 2 lanes with a passing lane up the mountains. Not much to report, I
am trying to get on the Internet. There is not much hope since the library is closed. I will keep writing in my journal.
Mike
Day 11
Dear Friends and Family,
I am sitting on the ferry on my way to Newfoundland. I woke up at 7:15 and was at the ferry at 8:00. Since I had no reservation, I decided to let availability of space on the ferry be the determining factor.
Yesterday I met a couple from New York while I was taking a small ferry to Sydney. They were very nice, and we exchanged motorcycle pleasantries: Nice bike, how many miles did you travel; how long have you been out; where did you go; what are the roads like? They are on the ferry to NF with me. It has been nice talking to them. We are going to some of the same places; I am sure I will see them again. I had breakfast with them and met a guy from NF. It has been an interesting morning. He told us places to go. He described a whale watching tour he had gone on. I know that I want to take a whale watching tour again.
The trip is 5-6 hours long. I hope to get to Stephenville for the night and then head up the coast in the morning. I changed time zones again. I am 2 1/2 hours ahead of you.
After watching the movie Titanic, and hearing lots of speeches about it when I was teaching speech, I decide to look for the lifeboats. They looked like orange submarines. They are sealed and have an electric motor. It says on the outside that they hold 43 people.
I just looked up and saw another ship going in the opposite direction. I imagine things will be expensive since everything on the island comes over by ferry.
Did I tell you that I have gone 3000 mile? That doesn't cover all of the ferry miles.
I talked to a woman who works on the ferry. They work 12-hour shifts for two weeks, and then they are off for two weeks. She said there is a cabin at the top of the ship for them to live. Interesting job.
Well I am going for a walk. I will write more later. Maybe I will find a place to email tonight.
30 minutes later:
The boat is moving pretty fast and has a gentle roll to it. It is odd to be on one of the big boats that we try to avoid on the sailboat. The deck hand on the ferry made us strap down the bikes so they won't move. It is nice being on a bike because they let us go to the front of the line. The boat should arrive at 3pm, and I have a 3-hour ride to Stephenville. I don't think I will camp tonight. I was warned by a guy from Labrador not to ride at night. The moose come out on the highway at night.
Later
I am in Stephenville. It is cold here when the sun goes down or behind a cloud. There is a stiff wind coming off the ocean that blew me around, but it is beautiful. I really had to keep a grip on the handlebars to keep the wind from pushing me across the road. Coming off the ferry, I started to climb a mountain, ocean on one-side and mountains on the other. The clouds were covering the tops of the mountains that are running to my right. Lots of Kodak moments, but I didn't stop to take any pictures.
The guy and his wife from the ferry just showed up at the motel.
In the morning I am heading for Gros Morne National Park. The road runs along the ocean. I was on the Trans Continental Highway. It is 2 lanes with a passing lane up the mountains. Not much to report, I
am trying to get on the Internet. There is not much hope since the library is closed. I will keep writing in my journal.
Mike
Saturday, August 4
Day 11
Dear Friends and Family,
I got an early start since I misread my watch. I left at 7, but I thought it was 8:30 am.
The drive once again was really beautiful. There were mountains on one side and ocean on the other the same as the other day. This is truly God's country. Later the wind picked up, and it started to get cold. I drove 400 miles today. When I started, I was going to the national park and whale watching in Cow Head. When I got to Cow Head, it was only 12:00 so I decided to go all the way to St. Anthony.
I arrived in St. Anthony cold and tired. While looking for a motel, I stopped near the harbor and looked out. Just outside the harbor was an iceberg on its way out to sea. I went back the next day but it was gone. This is not the iceberg I saw, but I love the picture.
I found out that there were no motel rooms in the entire town. The woman at the hotel called a B&B. It was too cold to camp. I was so grateful to find a place. I was weary, and the thought of a hot shower brought a tired smile to my face. When I arrived at the B&B, the owner said she was sorry, but she had no room. She in turn called a couple of places and sent me to the other side of the bay. When I arrived, a woman came out to greet me and informed me that she didn't have a room. She told me that there were no rooms in the entire town. The look on my face must have told my story because she said that she worked at night and if I could wait until 7:30, I could have her bed. I assured her that I was grateful, but even as weary as I was, I was not going to sleep in her bed. I asked if she had anyplace I could sleep. I showed her my bedroll and said I would be happy to sleep on the floor. My room for the night was the TV room. She told me I could raid the refrigerator if I was hungry, and I was welcome to use the washing machine. My eyes lit up at the thought of doing laundry; I was down to one clean outfit. Sara, the owner of the house, already had 7 people staying in her house.
Day 11
Dear Friends and Family,
I got an early start since I misread my watch. I left at 7, but I thought it was 8:30 am.
The drive once again was really beautiful. There were mountains on one side and ocean on the other the same as the other day. This is truly God's country. Later the wind picked up, and it started to get cold. I drove 400 miles today. When I started, I was going to the national park and whale watching in Cow Head. When I got to Cow Head, it was only 12:00 so I decided to go all the way to St. Anthony.
I arrived in St. Anthony cold and tired. While looking for a motel, I stopped near the harbor and looked out. Just outside the harbor was an iceberg on its way out to sea. I went back the next day but it was gone. This is not the iceberg I saw, but I love the picture.
I found out that there were no motel rooms in the entire town. The woman at the hotel called a B&B. It was too cold to camp. I was so grateful to find a place. I was weary, and the thought of a hot shower brought a tired smile to my face. When I arrived at the B&B, the owner said she was sorry, but she had no room. She in turn called a couple of places and sent me to the other side of the bay. When I arrived, a woman came out to greet me and informed me that she didn't have a room. She told me that there were no rooms in the entire town. The look on my face must have told my story because she said that she worked at night and if I could wait until 7:30, I could have her bed. I assured her that I was grateful, but even as weary as I was, I was not going to sleep in her bed. I asked if she had anyplace I could sleep. I showed her my bedroll and said I would be happy to sleep on the floor. My room for the night was the TV room. She told me I could raid the refrigerator if I was hungry, and I was welcome to use the washing machine. My eyes lit up at the thought of doing laundry; I was down to one clean outfit. Sara, the owner of the house, already had 7 people staying in her house.
As I pulled in I noticed there were three bikes in the drive. When I started carrying my gear into the basement, I was greeted by a gray haired gentleman with a Boston accent, "Are you the other biker." That was how I met Russ, and he introduced me to Nycole and Johanne. They invited me to go with them to the Viking Feast.
The feast was held in a typical Viking hut only a few miles away. The building was made of logs covered with sod. It looked like a side of a hill. It was nice to be with people. Russ is an entertainer by trade and very funny. He made me feel instantly relaxed.
Nycole and Johanne are from Quebec. They would talk to each other in French and then tell us what they said. Both spoke pretty good English, but we had to speak slowly. When we used a word that they didn't
know, we would have to define it. “Amazing” became one of their favorite words. Nycole loved the sound of it.
The girls met Russ on the ferry to NF. They had planned to stay only one day. Russ convinced them to come to St. Anthony. I am glad they did because I enjoyed their company.
The feast was held in a typical Viking hut only a few miles away. The building was made of logs covered with sod. It looked like a side of a hill. It was nice to be with people. Russ is an entertainer by trade and very funny. He made me feel instantly relaxed.
Nycole and Johanne are from Quebec. They would talk to each other in French and then tell us what they said. Both spoke pretty good English, but we had to speak slowly. When we used a word that they didn't
know, we would have to define it. “Amazing” became one of their favorite words. Nycole loved the sound of it.
The girls met Russ on the ferry to NF. They had planned to stay only one day. Russ convinced them to come to St. Anthony. I am glad they did because I enjoyed their company.
Sunday, August 5
Day 12
Dear Family and Friends,
I had breakfast at the B&B. Sara came home from work and had breakfast with us. She is really interesting. She works for the Coast Guard, and her husband teaches French. It took a while for everyone to get ready,
especially Johanne. We went to Norstead. It is a replica of a Viking village. There are people dress in costume and assuming a character. They each had a job or craft to demonstrate. It was like the Arcadian Village that I had gone to earlier. It is located near L'Anse aux Meadows, which is the only
authenticated Viking site in North America.
From the shore we could see whales as they surfaced. Russ went around talking to everyone, and the girls kept us laughing.
After a couple of hours, the girls left for Rocky Harbor about 250 miles south, and Russ and I went whale watching.
The boat we were on was a replica of a Viking ship only we didn't use the sail. The wind was on shore and very strong, but after we were out about a mile, it disappeared. We spotted 2 whales right away. What a thrill! They were right next to us. We were within 20 feet of them for almost an hour. They were feeding on Capelin (I am not sure how it is spelled.) It is like smelt. I had a salted one at the Viking Feast. It was accompanied by cod tongue. The first time I saw the whale dive and lift its tail in the air, I just stood with my mouth open. I was so amazed to see it for real and not on TV. I did get a little wet as we went into the waves, but it was worth it.
Day 12
Dear Family and Friends,
I had breakfast at the B&B. Sara came home from work and had breakfast with us. She is really interesting. She works for the Coast Guard, and her husband teaches French. It took a while for everyone to get ready,
especially Johanne. We went to Norstead. It is a replica of a Viking village. There are people dress in costume and assuming a character. They each had a job or craft to demonstrate. It was like the Arcadian Village that I had gone to earlier. It is located near L'Anse aux Meadows, which is the only
authenticated Viking site in North America.
From the shore we could see whales as they surfaced. Russ went around talking to everyone, and the girls kept us laughing.
After a couple of hours, the girls left for Rocky Harbor about 250 miles south, and Russ and I went whale watching.
The boat we were on was a replica of a Viking ship only we didn't use the sail. The wind was on shore and very strong, but after we were out about a mile, it disappeared. We spotted 2 whales right away. What a thrill! They were right next to us. We were within 20 feet of them for almost an hour. They were feeding on Capelin (I am not sure how it is spelled.) It is like smelt. I had a salted one at the Viking Feast. It was accompanied by cod tongue. The first time I saw the whale dive and lift its tail in the air, I just stood with my mouth open. I was so amazed to see it for real and not on TV. I did get a little wet as we went into the waves, but it was worth it.
I spoke to the owner of the boat on the way back in, and he told me about life on the island. It was a great experience. I said goodbye to Russ. My only stops other than for gas were for two moose and Arches Park. About an hour out of St. Anthony, I banked a corner and there about a hundred yard ahead of me standing on the edge of the road were two huge moose. I stopped the bike. If the moose saw me, they just ignored me. I waited for about 10 minutes and a car came down the road. The moose were not intimidated. A few minutes later they walked back into the woods.
Russ and the girls told me about Arches Park and said I should stop. Nycole climbed on top of it on the ride to St. Anthony. I would have loved to do the same, but it was getting late. I talked to 4 guys who had just come out of the mountains. They had to get there by truck, then by 4 wheeler, which was in the truck, and then by boat. They carried the motor with them. When I drove up one of them was playing the guitar. They immediately started up a conversation with me as if I had stopped to see them. They showed me what was left of the fish they had caught. The others had been eaten for lunch. As so many people, they warned me about the moose.
From Arches it was only about 70 miles to Rocky Harbor where I stayed at a hostel that Russ and the girls told me about. A bed for 12 bucks, now that is my kind of accommodations. I didn't think the girls would make it because of the really high winds. Several times the gusts pushed me over the yellow line. I spent several hundred miles leaning into the wind. Johanne had a little bike and likes to stop often. I wasn’t sure she could manage the wind. I was glad to arrive at Rocky Harbor. Ten minutes after I arrived, they showed up.
We watched the sun go down from a lighthouse. We rode back to the hostel and called it a night.
From Arches it was only about 70 miles to Rocky Harbor where I stayed at a hostel that Russ and the girls told me about. A bed for 12 bucks, now that is my kind of accommodations. I didn't think the girls would make it because of the really high winds. Several times the gusts pushed me over the yellow line. I spent several hundred miles leaning into the wind. Johanne had a little bike and likes to stop often. I wasn’t sure she could manage the wind. I was glad to arrive at Rocky Harbor. Ten minutes after I arrived, they showed up.
We watched the sun go down from a lighthouse. We rode back to the hostel and called it a night.
Monday, August 6
Day 13
We left for Port-aux-Basque to take the ferry. It would leave at 11:30 pm, and I have no reservation so I want to get there a little early. I am again reminded why I travel alone. It took Johanne quite awhile to get ready. I chose to ride last in our group because I feel uncomfortable riding with other people. When we got to Stephenville, NF where I stayed my first night on the island, the girls got something to eat, and I called Francie and Jim. It was his birthday.
Johanne who likes to stop a lot went on by herself. She just got her permit, which allows her to ride by herself. What she had to go through to get a license to ride a motorcycle was amazing. She had to take a class, get a permit that only allowed her to ride with someone else for 8 months and then take two tests. The entire process took an entire year.
While Johanne continued along the road to Port-aux-Basque, Nycole and I rode to the peninsula near Stephenville. The wind was strong and the waves crashed into the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The view was fantastic. We rode 100 miles circling the peninsula. We arrived at the ferry, and Johanne was waiting. I got a standby ticket, but she had already purchased one for me. She has a way of getting people to help her. When I arrived everyone knew me as “Cousin Mike.” She didn’t know my last name so she made one up. Of course the name was French. It was a dead give away as soon as I opened my mouth. Once on the ferry, we had to secure the bikes to the deck so they wouldn’t tip over. It sure made me nervous. In the long run, the bikes rested better than I did.
Day 13
We left for Port-aux-Basque to take the ferry. It would leave at 11:30 pm, and I have no reservation so I want to get there a little early. I am again reminded why I travel alone. It took Johanne quite awhile to get ready. I chose to ride last in our group because I feel uncomfortable riding with other people. When we got to Stephenville, NF where I stayed my first night on the island, the girls got something to eat, and I called Francie and Jim. It was his birthday.
Johanne who likes to stop a lot went on by herself. She just got her permit, which allows her to ride by herself. What she had to go through to get a license to ride a motorcycle was amazing. She had to take a class, get a permit that only allowed her to ride with someone else for 8 months and then take two tests. The entire process took an entire year.
While Johanne continued along the road to Port-aux-Basque, Nycole and I rode to the peninsula near Stephenville. The wind was strong and the waves crashed into the rocks at the base of the cliffs. The view was fantastic. We rode 100 miles circling the peninsula. We arrived at the ferry, and Johanne was waiting. I got a standby ticket, but she had already purchased one for me. She has a way of getting people to help her. When I arrived everyone knew me as “Cousin Mike.” She didn’t know my last name so she made one up. Of course the name was French. It was a dead give away as soon as I opened my mouth. Once on the ferry, we had to secure the bikes to the deck so they wouldn’t tip over. It sure made me nervous. In the long run, the bikes rested better than I did.
Tuesday, August 7
Day 14
I have been sleeping in a chair on the ferry. On a loud speaker, they proclaimed the day to have begun because breakfast was being served. The time was 5:30 am. I have finally caught up in the journal and hope to find Internet access. (Which I didn’t)
When we got off the ferry, we headed for Louisborg. It is the reconstruction of a French fort and city. When in New Glasgow the woman at the B&B said I should go there. Johanne was all excited because she teaches a section to her 5th graders about the fort. She spent the time filming the buildings and the people acting as villagers and soldiers. As she filmed she narrated what was being seen. It was really interesting to watch. She also seemed to have lots of cute looking soldiers in the film. Later she said she loved men in uniforms.
We talked to a couple while having coffee before leaving. The woman was from Quebec and taught French to students in a school near Halifax. The conversation with the couple started because Johanne and Nycole were talking to each other in French. The woman’s husband was a bike rider and a professor of astral physics and molecular biology. He told me if I needed a place to stay when I was in the Halifax area to give them a call. It never fails to amaze me how kind people are. We had a great conversation about education in the U.S. and Canada. After several hours we decided to leave Louisborg even though there were still things to see.
Because all day it looked like it was going to rain, we made a straight run for Antigonish. I had been there the week before to do my laundry. We had ridden for several hours before it started to rain. It rained lightly for about 5 minutes and stopped. It was more of a mess than anything else. We warned Johanne about banking any corner because it was very slippery.
Wednesday, August 8
Day 15
The girls and I parted company this morning. They were headed home, and I was off to Halifax. Part of me was sad to see them go and part of me was glad to be on my own again.
Later
I am sitting in Halifax. It is strange to be in a city again. I am getting the oil in my bike changed. It has taken over 2 hours. I had a nice ride earlier today along the coast. I stopped in a reconstructed fishing village. It was very interesting. There was a courthouse that looked just like the one I pictured in my head when reading To Kill a Mocking Bird. I took pictures.
I was glad to leave the city. I wanted to see Peggy’s Cove.
Several hours later
I am sitting on a rock at Peggy’s Cove. A rock is not a fair description. Picture the top of a mountain with lots of levels of rock. Take that top and put it next to the ocean. You can sit 30 or 40 feet above the water or go down to sea level and get wet. The sun is going down behind the lighthouse and the water is crashing into the rocks and splashing spray into the air. I wish you could hear it. It will get quiet and then roars back to life shooting water into the air as it tries to crush the rocks.
Day 15
The girls and I parted company this morning. They were headed home, and I was off to Halifax. Part of me was sad to see them go and part of me was glad to be on my own again.
Later
I am sitting in Halifax. It is strange to be in a city again. I am getting the oil in my bike changed. It has taken over 2 hours. I had a nice ride earlier today along the coast. I stopped in a reconstructed fishing village. It was very interesting. There was a courthouse that looked just like the one I pictured in my head when reading To Kill a Mocking Bird. I took pictures.
I was glad to leave the city. I wanted to see Peggy’s Cove.
Several hours later
I am sitting on a rock at Peggy’s Cove. A rock is not a fair description. Picture the top of a mountain with lots of levels of rock. Take that top and put it next to the ocean. You can sit 30 or 40 feet above the water or go down to sea level and get wet. The sun is going down behind the lighthouse and the water is crashing into the rocks and splashing spray into the air. I wish you could hear it. It will get quiet and then roars back to life shooting water into the air as it tries to crush the rocks.
These postcards are
a much better illustration than any picture I could take.
I don’t know what I expected, but this was not it. I have seen many fishing villages but none with the peace and serenity of this one. It can’t be described, but as the sky glows red from the setting sun, I feel peaceful. Goodnight.
Thursday, August 9
Day 16
I rode part of the lighthouse trail today and am now making my way to the Bay of Fundy. I saw what it looked like with the tide out. I wanted to go to 5 Islands, but missed the provincial park. I am now staying in Parrsboro. This is my last night camping. The next few days I will be trying to cover as many miles as I can. I am ready to go home. I am still looking forward to the adventure of getting home, but I am tired of being on the road, and I miss Francie, my friends and family. For the first time I have planned the route for the next few days. I will dip into Maine, New Hampshire, and Vermont and come up again near Sherbrooke, Quebec. The 401 is the fastest way home.
I emailed you today, but after an hour and a half, my fingers were sore and the librarian thought I should go. As you can see, I didn’t get caught up with all I had written. Tonight I do laundry, another big night out on the town.
Friday, August 10
Day 17
I am on my way home. I woke up at 6:00 am. I was on the road by 7. The bike needs a new front tire. It has worn funny and is dangerous.
I drove 80 miles to Moncton, NB. It is a good day. I hit a tire sale at the Yamaha dealer. It was less than what I paid in the US. I didn’t check the air pressure enough, and that’s why it wore down so quickly. I know better. I left my air gage at home. I should have been more careful.
This is an interesting area because it is both French and English. It seems like everyone is bilingual. Last night at the Bay of Fundy, I went to the beach while the tide was out. There was a small sailboat on its side. The channel markers were on the ground. You could see the water level mark on the pier. It had to be at least 20 feet.
This morning I drove to the beach before I left town. The boat was floating and the channel markers were once again marking the entrance to the harbor. The water line on the pier was marking the level of the water. The water had been restored. Amazing.
I was thinking this morning of all the different warning signs I have seen. My favorites are the moose hitting head on with a car (the car is smashed, the moose is ok!) and the wave knocking over the car. You don’t see those signs in Chicago. What kind of warning signs should we have in Chicago? We could have a guy leaning out of a car with a gun warning of drive by shootings in some of the rough neighborhoods.
Well I have seen what I wanted to see: iceberg, whales, moose and the Bay of Fundy. It has been a great ride so far. It’s a good day.
Saturday, August 11
Day 18
I am sitting at an Irving gas station in Solon, Maine. I am waiting for a tow truck. I have a flat tire. I have spent the morning trying to find a place to fix the bike. People keep stopping offering to help. That just amazes me. The truck is coming from 50 miles away, so I will be here for a while.
Last night I couldn’t find a room because of the county fair. I stopped at a bar and old hotel. The guy that ran the place is a biker and was having friends ride up from Massachusetts for the weekend. It is a very small town, and everyone knows each other. The people in the bar were waiting for the bikers to show up. Then I walked in. It was a surprise for them and me. They were sure I was one of his friends. When I told them that I needed a place to stay, several people helped me call local motels. No luck. It was then that a couple people offered their homes and even bought me drinks. It was certainly an interesting night. The guy that ran the place said he would find some place for me to sleep, but didn’t tell me where until the bar closed at 1 am. I learned a lot about life in a small town.
I got up early this morning only to find a flat front tire. Yesterday I had a new tire put on the bike. I rode 400 mile without a problem. I rode to a gas station just up the street. It was a rough ride because it was hard to control the bike. I was hoping that all it needed was air. No such luck!
I hope the truck gets here soon. A guy just stopped and said he could fix the tire, but I decided to wait for the truck. At least I have a chance to clean it up. It rained a little yesterday, and the road was under construction. In fact it was a gravel road for 12 miles.
Sunday, August 13
Day 19
I am in London, Ontario. Since it is my last night I am staying in a Ramada Inn.
I did my 400 miles and had lots of time to reflect on the trip. It was not a real demanding ride, except the traffic jam in Toronto.
I’ll come back to the reflecting later; let me tell you about the rest of yesterday. I had a beautiful ride through the mountains in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont. The roads were in great shape with lots of curves. It was a great ride.
I had a problem with customs coming into Canada. They went through all of my stuff, searched me, the whole bit. I won’t go into detail, but they were rude and tried to be threatening. I was charged for smuggling a weapon into the country. It was the knife I had on my belt. Later after they ran a background check, they were more pleasant, but I still had to pay a fine. I was delayed for over an hour. I left the border crossing at about 5 pm, and I went directly to the expressway. I rode until 9 pm because I wanted out of Quebec. I was really angry. The bike and I fit a profile, I guess. This was a first and it left a bad taste in my mouth.
Day 19
I am in London, Ontario. Since it is my last night I am staying in a Ramada Inn.
I did my 400 miles and had lots of time to reflect on the trip. It was not a real demanding ride, except the traffic jam in Toronto.
I’ll come back to the reflecting later; let me tell you about the rest of yesterday. I had a beautiful ride through the mountains in Maine, New Hampshire and Vermont. The roads were in great shape with lots of curves. It was a great ride.
I had a problem with customs coming into Canada. They went through all of my stuff, searched me, the whole bit. I won’t go into detail, but they were rude and tried to be threatening. I was charged for smuggling a weapon into the country. It was the knife I had on my belt. Later after they ran a background check, they were more pleasant, but I still had to pay a fine. I was delayed for over an hour. I left the border crossing at about 5 pm, and I went directly to the expressway. I rode until 9 pm because I wanted out of Quebec. I was really angry. The bike and I fit a profile, I guess. This was a first and it left a bad taste in my mouth.
Monday, August 14
Day 19
I stayed in Cromwell, Ontario last night. I was exhausted and slept until 9 am. I was amazed. I didn’t get on the road until 10:30. That was a first. I have never started that late
I just turned over 6,000 miles, and I still have 400 to 500 to go. Did I tell you that I got lost in Montreal? The sun was going down, and I couldn’t see. The cars around me are doing 75, and it is crowded. I thought I would stay in a motel before I reached Montreal so I never studied the map. I still hadn’t made up my mind about reaching Ontario. I found the ramp for my road, but it was closed. I am sure there was a sign, but it was in French. I ended up on another highway. I got off as soon as I could. It sure looked like I was in the wrong part of town. After several blocks, I saw a two people and asked if they spoke English. They did. They explained how to get back onto the expressway. When the sun sat, I made up my mind to ride to Cromwell that was only another 100 miles.
Day 19
I stayed in Cromwell, Ontario last night. I was exhausted and slept until 9 am. I was amazed. I didn’t get on the road until 10:30. That was a first. I have never started that late
I just turned over 6,000 miles, and I still have 400 to 500 to go. Did I tell you that I got lost in Montreal? The sun was going down, and I couldn’t see. The cars around me are doing 75, and it is crowded. I thought I would stay in a motel before I reached Montreal so I never studied the map. I still hadn’t made up my mind about reaching Ontario. I found the ramp for my road, but it was closed. I am sure there was a sign, but it was in French. I ended up on another highway. I got off as soon as I could. It sure looked like I was in the wrong part of town. After several blocks, I saw a two people and asked if they spoke English. They did. They explained how to get back onto the expressway. When the sun sat, I made up my mind to ride to Cromwell that was only another 100 miles.
Tuesday, August 14
Day 20
I am in London, Ontario. Since it is my last night I am staying in a Ramada Inn.
When I crossed back into the US, I was only 100 miles from Ypsilanti, Michigan, the home of Eastern Michigan University. I had not been back to Ypsi since I graduated in 1972. I am not sure what I expected. Obviously many things had changed in over 30 years. Parts of the town were not familiar at all and other parts were like stepping back in time. I meandered around the campus area and found the apartments where my cousin John and I lived when we worked for Ford in the steel mill. It was located in a huge industrial area called River Rouge in Southfield, which was about 35 miles away. We worked there several summers. I also walked around the campus. Most of the memories were vague recollections of a busy and difficult time in my life. I did find the house that I had lived in the two years I went to Eastern. My last year of school, I drove a school bus in a near by community. I thought about trying to find the bus garage, but had no idea where it was from campus. I was pleased that I had taken the time to step into the past. Having done so, I know there is no reason to go back again.
Day 20
I am in London, Ontario. Since it is my last night I am staying in a Ramada Inn.
When I crossed back into the US, I was only 100 miles from Ypsilanti, Michigan, the home of Eastern Michigan University. I had not been back to Ypsi since I graduated in 1972. I am not sure what I expected. Obviously many things had changed in over 30 years. Parts of the town were not familiar at all and other parts were like stepping back in time. I meandered around the campus area and found the apartments where my cousin John and I lived when we worked for Ford in the steel mill. It was located in a huge industrial area called River Rouge in Southfield, which was about 35 miles away. We worked there several summers. I also walked around the campus. Most of the memories were vague recollections of a busy and difficult time in my life. I did find the house that I had lived in the two years I went to Eastern. My last year of school, I drove a school bus in a near by community. I thought about trying to find the bus garage, but had no idea where it was from campus. I was pleased that I had taken the time to step into the past. Having done so, I know there is no reason to go back again.
As I look back I realize that I am so fortunate to be able to do this. Three weeks of exploring the country and riding all kinds of roads. I have met so many people whose generosity will stay with me for years to come.
Russ (from Boston that I met in NF) and I were talking about why we do this. It is all about the ride. I love to ride that bike. I feel part of what I am seeing. I feel each temperature chance, like when I hit a forest area or when a mountain blocks the sun. The air changes fragrance and humidity. I lose myself as I take the corners, judging speed, and calculating how far to lean. I am concentrating on the road conditions. It is the bike, the road and me as one. When it all comes together, it is poetry in motion. It is like those special moments teaching when it all comes together for both the kids and me.
When you add the people, the unpredictability and the ride together, it has made for one hell of a great three-week trip. I am getting to live what others dream of doing.
Russ (from Boston that I met in NF) and I were talking about why we do this. It is all about the ride. I love to ride that bike. I feel part of what I am seeing. I feel each temperature chance, like when I hit a forest area or when a mountain blocks the sun. The air changes fragrance and humidity. I lose myself as I take the corners, judging speed, and calculating how far to lean. I am concentrating on the road conditions. It is the bike, the road and me as one. When it all comes together, it is poetry in motion. It is like those special moments teaching when it all comes together for both the kids and me.
When you add the people, the unpredictability and the ride together, it has made for one hell of a great three-week trip. I am getting to live what others dream of doing.